The drive from Queenstown to Wanaka was one of the better days I had on New Zealand’s South Island. I went over the Crown Range Road, stopped at Cardrona Distillery, walked through the Wanaka Lavender Farm and finished the afternoon at Lake Wanaka with a tripod and the tree everyone comes to photograph. Here is what the route actually looks like.
Two Ways to Drive from Queenstown to Wanaka
There are two options. State Highway 6 through Cromwell is the straightforward one – flat, 113 km, about an hour and 30 minutes. It stays open year-round in most conditions and is the reliable choice in bad weather.
The Crown Range Road is the other way. It cuts over the mountains through Cardrona Valley, roughly 70 km, about an hour in good conditions. Steeper. Narrower in places. Closes in heavy winter snow. The highest main road in New Zealand.
I took the Crown Range Road. I was glad I did.
Crown Range Road
The road starts climbing fast after Queenstown. Within 15 minutes you are on steep switchbacks with views already opening up behind you. The gravel pulloffs on the way up are worth using – the angle back over the Queenstown basin with the Remarkables behind it is better from mid-slope than from the top.
At the summit the road briefly levels before the long descent into Cardrona Valley. There is a rough track leading up from the road to a high point above the tarmac. I walked it for about 10 minutes and stood at the top looking both ways – Queenstown spread out in one direction, the peaks above Wanaka in the other. Nobody else up there. Just wind and tussock and a long wall of mountains closing off every side.
The descent into Cardrona is steep in sections. The road narrows and the drop-off on one side is real. Take it slow if you are not used to mountain driving. Once you reach the valley floor the whole thing opens up – wide farmland, low rolling hills, that same mountain wall still visible on both sides.
Cardrona Distillery
About halfway down the valley, Cardrona Distillery sits on the left. Dark schist stone, clean lines, neat grounds. I stopped mainly to look at the building. The architecture earns a stop on its own – the main distillery and the reception building use the same stone and carry a weight you do not expect from a country-road stop.
I photographed the reception building from across the lawn at midday. Overhead light picked up the texture of the schist wall and the dark metal roof sat cleanly against the blue sky behind it.
The distillery makes single malt whisky, gin and vodka. Tastings run daily on a set schedule – check their hours before visiting because they change seasonally. The grounds are free to walk around regardless.
Wanaka Lavender Farm
A few kilometres before Wanaka, the lavender rows come into view from the road. Purple on the right side, backed by mountains. Hard to miss.
The farm has a freestanding doorframe painted purple at the entrance to the rows. Walk through it and the path leads straight down between the plants toward the mountain range. Simple setup. It works well. The frame focuses the eye, the rows pull it toward the back and on a clear day the mountains fill the top third of the frame behind the path.
Entry is free. There is a cafe on site and a shop selling lavender products.
I shot this handheld at f/8 with the 24-70mm at around 35mm. Midday sun was fine for the lavender colours but created hard shadows around the doorframe. If soft even light matters to you, go in the morning or wait for thin cloud cover.
That Wanaka Tree
I had seen the photos before I arrived. A single willow tree growing out of the bottom of Lake Wanaka, trunk disappearing into the water, mountains and sky filling the frame behind it. I knew the spot would be crowded. Went anyway.
I got to the lakefront about an hour before sunset. Twenty or thirty people were already there, a handful of tripods set up at the water’s edge. The crowd thinned a bit as the evening cooled down but not by much.
The right position is low. Get to the water’s edge and shoot across the lake surface rather than from standing height. The tree is out in the water 8 to 10 metres from shore. When the level is low you can wade in for a closer angle. When I was there the water was high enough that the pebble shore gave a good position without getting wet.
I set up the D850 and Tamron 24-70mm on the tripod and worked at f/8, ISO 100, 2 second exposures. That smoothed the lake to glass and let the reflection form a clean vertical line below the trunk. The mountains behind the tree caught golden light for about 15 minutes before it faded. That is your window.
Sunrise is quieter than sunset by a long way. A handful of people versus the 30-plus that show up in the evening. If a clean background matters, get up early.
Photography Tips
The Crown Range Road gives you the best shots on the way up, not at the top. Stop and pull over as you climb. The angle back over the Queenstown basin is better from mid-slope. Morning light from the east hits the valley floor well.
At Cardrona Distillery, midday works fine for the stone exterior. Shoot from across the lawn to get the full building in frame. The texture of the schist reads well in direct light.
At the lavender farm, stand far enough back from the doorframe that the path, the rows and the mountains all fit together in the same frame. Around 24mm gives you the rows on either side without losing the mountains. Overcast is actually good here – it saturates the lavender colour without the hard shadows.
At the Wanaka Tree, a tripod is non-negotiable. Use live view to nail focus on the trunk before you start shooting. I worked at ISO 100, f/8, 2 seconds. Golden hour and sunrise are the two times worth targeting. At around 50mm on the 24-70mm, the tree sits at a natural scale with the mountains behind it in reasonable proportion.
Gear: Nikon D850 body, Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 G2.
How to Get There
Via Crown Range Road: from Queenstown town centre, take Gorge Road toward Arrowtown. Before Arrowtown, follow the Crown Range Road signs over the pass into Cardrona Valley, then down to Wanaka. With stops, allow 2 to 3 hours.
Via State Highway 6 (Cromwell Route): 113 km, about 1 hour 30 minutes non-stop. Flatter and more reliable in bad weather. Passes through Cromwell and the Kawarau Gorge.
Both routes are sealed. The Crown Range Road is narrower and steeper in sections.
Best Time to Visit
November through April is the best window. The Crown Range Road can close in winter (June to August) due to snow and ice. If you are travelling in those months, check NZTA road conditions before leaving Queenstown and consider carrying chains.
The lavender farm peaks in December and January. Outside those months the rows are still open but the colour is noticeably thinner.
For the Wanaka Tree, any season works. Bare branches in winter have a different kind of appeal. Summer gives you green leaves and warm light on the mountains. December to February is peak season in Wanaka – if crowd management at the tree matters, November or March is a better call.
Where to Stay
I stayed in Wanaka rather than driving back to Queenstown the same day. I had Roy’s Peak on the plan for the next morning – the trailhead is right outside Wanaka and starting early makes a real difference on that climb. I stayed at Wanaka Riverside Retreat in Albert Town, about 4 minutes from the centre of Wanaka. Quiet area, easy access to the lake and a short drive to the Roy’s Peak trailhead. Wanaka accommodation is generally cheaper than Queenstown and the town itself is much quieter.
Practical Tips
- Crown Range Road can require chains from June to August. Check NZTA live alerts before leaving Queenstown.
- Cardrona Distillery tastings run on a set seasonal schedule. Check hours before going. The grounds are free to explore.
- The lavender farm has free entry. Peak bloom is December and January.
- The Wanaka lakefront car park fills early at sunset. Arrive at least 45 minutes before golden hour to get a spot.
- Budget 3 to 4 hours for the Crown Range route with stops at the distillery, lavender farm and time at the tree.
FAQs
What is the most scenic route from Queenstown to Wanaka?
The Crown Range Road. It crosses the highest main road in New Zealand and gives you wide views across Cardrona Valley on the descent. State Highway 6 through Cromwell is longer and flatter. In clear weather the Crown Range is the better drive by some margin. In winter or bad weather, Cromwell is the safer call.
Do you need snow chains to drive from Queenstown to Wanaka?
In winter – June through August – the Crown Range Road can require chains and sometimes closes entirely after heavy snowfall. Check NZTA road conditions before leaving Queenstown. If you want to avoid the chain situation altogether, State Highway 6 through Cromwell stays open more reliably through winter.
When is the best time to photograph the Wanaka Tree?
Sunrise. You get warm light on the mountains, a calm lake surface for long exposure work and far fewer people than at sunset. Golden hour in the evening is also good but expect a crowd of tripods already set up when you arrive. The tree works in any season – bare branches in winter have a different mood, still worth shooting.
Is the Wanaka Lavender Farm worth visiting?
If you are going to Wanaka in December or January, yes. The rows are in full bloom, the purple doorframe makes a strong photo and the mountain backdrop is hard to beat. Outside those two months the farm is still open and the views are still there but the colour impact is much less.
How long does the drive from Queenstown to Wanaka take?
Non-stop via Crown Range Road is about 1 hour. Non-stop via Cromwell is about 1 hour 30 minutes. With stops at the Crown Range viewpoints, Cardrona Distillery and the lavender farm, allow 3 hours minimum for the Crown Range route. Add more time if you plan to spend an hour or more at the Wanaka Tree lakefront.
Closing Thoughts
The Crown Range Road turns a straightforward transfer between two towns into a proper day out. The viewpoints justify taking the longer route on their own. The distillery in the valley is a good stop. The lavender farm adds a colour shot that is difficult to find anywhere else in the region. And the tree at the lake, photographed with 2 seconds of shutter smoothing the water below it – that is why you drove here.
For more from New Zealand, see the full New Zealand travel guide.
